We had just joined the M1, when my glance fell on the clock on the car's dashboard. It was 14:07, and outside it was night. It was pitch dark. The sun had already set, and the moon wasn't up yet. There wasn't a trace of light in the sky, but the motorway was well lit.
I was suddenly overtaken with a sense of deja vu. My mind went back to the first 23 years of my life in New Delhi. We had all the four seasons. Winters meant dry skin and getting into bed early, with a heavy quilt, and sometimes with a second layer of blankets. I still have my mother's black 100% pure wool Raymonds blankets.
Winter was also adding ghee to hot dal. Winter was having to wear my woolen uniform gray skirt to school and get chaffing on my thighs, on already dry skin, exacerbated by the dry winters of Delhi.
Winter did have its rewards too. Sitting in our expansive South facing verandah, the sun's kisses warm on my skin, as it traversed from right to left, lulling me into an easy submission of its warm embrace. As it headed west, the sky ablaze with red, the sun went home. And I shut the windows and drew the curtains on the verandah's balcony.
The winter vegetables were quite a treat. Crisp cauliflower, long white radishes, all the greens, and of course carrots and peas. Time for gajar halwa, stuffed parathas, eaten hot with chunks of butter. Sabat urad dal or kali dal, with a dollop of ghee melting gently and quickly, to be eaten with chapattis, also generously slathered with ghee.
My one big memory is of the winter of 1972. Delhi hosted its first Trade Fair called Asia 72, inaugurated by Mrs Indira Gandhi on November 3rd. It lasted a month. However the Exhibition was so popular that it was extended for an additional month. It was a very big deal for India, and people came from out of state to visit.
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_of_Nations
The Hall of Nations was an iconic exhibition hall inaugurated in 1972 as part of the Pragati Maidan complex in New Delhi, India. It was built to commemorate 25 years of Indian independence.[1]
Inaugurated by then-Prime Minister Indira Gandhi for the India International Trade Fair called Asia 72, it was the world’s first and, at the time, the largest-span space-frame structure built in reinforced concrete.
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The International Trade Fair sprawled across a very vast area and today boasts its over "123.5 acres provides 100,000 sq meters of exhibition space with a planned capacity of 13,500 people."
Every state in India was represented by its own Pavilion. Then there were several International Pavilion's as well. All the pavilions showcased the Industries and other Initiatives of their State.
I was a first year MA student and it was the in thing to be working there. Jobs has been advertised in papers and the money was so good that it was not easy to get into the better paying pavilions. I had thought about it, but ended up not applying, because University was still in session in November.
As luck would have it however, my father knew someone who was representing Bharat TV, (I think the first TV to be made in India,) by the Hindustan Aeronautical Industries (HAL) and they asked if I would host the stall in the Andra Pradesh Pavilion.
Since there were others from Pandara Road working there, my mother reluctantly agreed, because we could come home together after it closed at 9:00 pm, which is an unearthly hour in the Delhi winters.
That is how I found myself working alongside a bunch of lovely people, some of whom I remained in touch even after my children were born. Two of them became good friends. One was Mr. Santokh Singh, an AP Forest Officer, who treated me as his daughter and looked out for me, especially when any of the young men visitors hung around me for too long and asked too many questions about Bharat TV. He was good friends with a shy young man whose name I forget, who was there with Hyderabad Allwyn, a white goods company, then known primarily for their Refrigerators. The second person was Ashok Kumar who was a law student at Allahabad University, and was working for Coromandel Fertilizers. When Ashok left after the Asia 72 ended, Coromandel decided to stay on, and I took over his position. Coromandel paid very well.
However, the best pay in the AP Pavilion was at the ITC stall- rather a large area. They had hired the 1971 Miss India, Raj Gill to showcase their Company. Her job was to just sit in an ornate throne like chair, on a 'stage' like enclosure which had fancy cords around it. So she just sat in the center of the stall and look pretty, not talk to anyone. The ITC Boss was Marcel Parker and he frequently chatted with us. Marcel was also related to my mum's friend Miss Keskar. He was a pleasant personality, with sauce looks and always dressed in suits like a true upper management professional. Raj Gill played the ice maiden and I don't recall hearing her voice. I think that was what she was paid for! To sit pretty.
Ashok and I sometimes went to eat dosa at a restaurant in the fair grounds. It was a fancy place, and we ate our dosas with a fork and knife. It was a real treat for me, as I wasn't used to eating out. I still enjoy eating a dosa with a fork and knife when possible, and spoon to slurp the sambar. It reminds me of my Asia 72 days.
The duration of the two months of working at the Asia 72 was a very productive time for me. I used to leave the house just before 8:00 am to catch the 8:15 university special. Breakfast was a very big bowl of thin Sooji kheer, more milk that sooji- which my mum prepared for me with so much love, that it kept me satiated for a very long time.
From University, I went straight to Pragati Maidan, the venue of the ASIA 72 fair, to be in time for the 2:00 pm opening hours. Quite often, my next meal was when I arrived home late at night, around 10:00 pm, and Mummy would make me hot chapatis with whatever sabzi there was, and my favorite kali daal, (today popularized as dal makhani) and she would heat it on our gas stove in a small pan, and break an egg into it, which would cook in the dal. That how I liked it. It was a very hearty meal. Then next morning it started all over again, and I loved it! I loved that I was working.
Other happy winter memories are of Canberra. It gets colder than Sydney, and on some mornings we had to scrape the iced windshield of the cars. I used to drop my daughter to work, so I could have the car during the day. Then I would go and pick her up in the evenings, often having to wait while she finished her work if something came up unexpectedly.
Another happy memory is sitting around a bon fire in Lorese's house in Canberra. The Southern hemisphere winters are mid-year! More Canberra- going to Two Sisters Asian restaurant, where I first tasted Laksa, a flavorsome Malaysian noodle dish.
Winters are not without their magic. In Delhi that is when the Mughal Gardens at Rashtrapati Bhavan are open to the public. They are a riot of colors and manicured lawns and flowers beds. Many kinds of pansies and snap dragons and hollyhock. Besides roses of course, and all the other winter flowers.
India's Republic Day is celebrated for a whole week of ceremonies and fanfare, with the Parade on the 26th kicking off the celebrations. We went as children, and sat in the V1 block, as my mother was always in charge of the VIP section. She was working in the ceremonial section and had actively planned the very first celebrations which started in 1950. Every year after that, during the month of January, she returned to the Ceremonial section to organize the VIP seating plan and take charge of the VIP section, where the Prime Minister and other high ranking officials, politicians, Military commanders, and Chief Justices also sat with their families.
The Parade was followed by the Folk Dances with dancers coming from every state of India. These were held at the National Stadium. All this was within walking distance of Pandara Road, and in those days longer walking distances were normal.
The Grand Finale was the Beating of the Retreat, was held in the evening at Vijay Chowk, with the backdrop of the Rashtrapati Bhavan; the road leading to it flanked by the Secretariat buildings of the North and South Block.
It was a spectacular show of the Bands beating the Retreat, marching up and down, as different regiments regaled and flaunted the skilled mastery of their bands. The drums and bagpipes were very popular. The Conductor of one of the Bands, I forget which, I think the Sikh Regiment probably, threw his baton in the air, and caught it again neatly as it somersaulted back into his strong hands.
Then just as the sun started to set, the band played Mahatma Gandhi's favorite hym Abide With Me. The bells chimed from afar in the 'Chatris' of the North and South Block, followed by the bugles. The flag was lowered and the ceremony closed with the bands retreating to Saare Jahan se accha Hindustan tamara.
The patriotism in those moments elevates one to a whole different level. I was always inspired by these ceremonies, and wrote poems for the Sainik Samachar. My poem about the Amar Jawan Jyoti was published in the center spread, and when I look at those copies now, it seems a very long time ago, yet not, but definitely a distance is felt, and its not a happy realization. It was a different time.
I found a 2024 recording on You Tube (https://www.youtube.com/live/QJoBYNeERCI?si=c_e3PJJMpb1rEsYM) and a lot has changed. The moment of surprise and pride was to see the inclusion of women, masterfully playing the drums. Very impressive and a moment of immense joy and pride to see this face of India.
While writing this I realized, that I was born just six years after Independence. For such a young country we were doing pretty well. My grandfather who came from Lahore with the clothes on his back was already well established and they were publishing again, had a printing press in Connaught Circle, house on Babar Road, and a big Chevrolet family car. India can indeed become an even better country if we learn to treat our women with respect, and get rid of corruption which thwarts progress.
We continued our long drive to meet up with friends at a Korean restaurant. My reverie was broken when I realized I had fallen silent, and the silence was disquieting. So I just thanked God for the heat in the car, the warm seats and for providing safe passage as we criss crossed across oceans and found homes away from home.
Veenu Banga
12/11-12/2024.
1:44 am!
Goodness me, I did not expect it to be so late. What can I expect, when I type with one finger!